Mostaza is a great little nook-of-a restaurant in Casco Viejo just a block from the Pacific Ocean. It has a quaint outside dining area that gets the great warm breeze off the bay and the tables lie at the front of an old church and archway (arco chato) which looks something like a bomb site. Inside is delightful too, but they crank the air conditioning up too high at night.

The menu is decidedly Spanish. The wine list is decent. And the waiters are fairly well-versed in the mannerisms of fine dining.

I have been there four times and didn't want to write a premature review, but I honestly think the food is about a 7 out of 10. I have many friends in Casco Viejo who swear by the place, saying that they wouldn't dare take newly-arrived guests anywhere else, like to nearby Manolo Caracol or Scena or anything like that. And I agree with a lot of them. Places like Las Bovedas are nothing more than overpriced tourist traps and I always ask myself as I'm leaving there, time after time, why did I come here again?

But Mostaza seems like they're trying to do something a little bit different. It does at least have some good signature dishes and I'm definitely a sucker for a cool bar. Inside, the restaurant has that great exposed wall we've come to expect from trendy Casco Viejo joints and I'm always pleasantly surprised by eclectic interior design which the place has down to an art. I have to hand it to them that they are one of the few places that can attract a true foodie crowd, but in my humble palate-less opinion, I never quite leave Mostaza feeling any spectacular twinkle on my tongue.

I've had the steaks and the fish dishes and they all just kinda taste to me like something I'd get at a decent steakhouse in the states. Nothing outrageous. The one unique and different thing I've happily ordered there was the baccalao which arrives in this little cast iron skillet which is sitting on another small plate which is sitting on another plate. Sort of like those small collectible Russian dolls. The dish had a distinct fishy taste that almost threw me off, but the rice and fresh herbs seemed to tame well enough and I came away feeling at least happy I had tried something new.

Always opt for the bread at the beginning which is small little toasted rolls served with roasted garlic cloves in oil: which are as shiny and smooth as little jewels. One thing I don't quite understand is why restaurants like these, who act all trendy and charge all trendy, refuse to realize the fact that steamed broccoli and baked potato are not that trendy. Come on guys!

The service at Mostaza is most certainly up to snuff. I've been there when they're busy and I've been there when they're not and I can tell you that each time, the same quick guy on his feet is a constant. He knows a little bit of English and loves to use it to impress guests with small sayings like, “may I take that from you” and “oh, that napkin has bird poop on it.” He is informed when it comes to wines and does that several-step process in opening each bottle, yet I'm always left wondering what I'm supposed to do with the cork. Do you put it in your pocket for later inspection? Do you tear off a little bit and eat it? I truly don't know.

Located in that stunning building, atop beautiful old cobblestone bricks and affront a view to the causeway, there's not much they can do wrong with the place, and I really think Mostaza plays it safe a lot of the time. Sure they could go far out there and try to throw together a truly wild and undisciplined menu daring with new flavors and combinations...but that might be pushing the envelope. Mostaza knows they've got the atmosphere. They know they have the location. And they know they have the clientele. For that reason, I feel like Mostaza is like a talented singer in a late round of American Idol: they just don't want to risk doing anything wrong. And for the time being, it certainly has the voters cheering its name.

Comments (5)

Alan: You are so right on your descriptions of restaurants in Panama are perhaps the best i have come across in my 22 years here. they are accurate, truthful, and sometimes too critical. please give us more as i've read everything you have. 1 May 11, 2007 Moti: Agreed Very true. Some dishes are good, but overall, just ok. 2 May 22, 2007 Steven Gurre: i second that i went to this place because i was told its where "the locals eat". but, damn, this is the best it gets? i wish i had gone to the other places you talk about like ego and manaolo caracol. oh well, next time. 3 May 22, 2007 Stefan: Nice review! I experienced the same broccoli and in aluminum foil wrapped baked potato and was a bit disappointed since it just didn't fit into the elegant and cozy interior. I guess I had the same quick guy. I didn't actually ordered wine but I admired his technique of filling my beer glass while he actually put the bottle neck on the rim of the glass, canted the glass and poured in the beer. What really bothered me was the fact, that the kitchen is open. The doors always open and there seems to be some piece of wall missing. So later that evening the kitchen odor was a bit annoying. 4 July 01, 2007 Mary Roush: Excellent if you choose carefully The crisp, freshly baked rolls are scrumptious (we asked--and got--more). The caesar salad was delicious (but not quite as good as at Ego...needs a heavier hand with the anchovies). The ravioli with salmon vodka sauce and the osso buco were heavenly. Those choices plus a great wine we chose has incited us to return. Give it a try. You don't HAVE to choose and entree with a foil-wrapped baked potato. 5 November 14, 2007