Panama Real Estate Investment Travel Information


Limoncillo

(9 votes)

Written by Matt Landau

Saturday, April 21 2007

Limoncillo is one of the few restaurants in Panama that does a decent job of brand building and print marketing. They're located semi-veiled in the first floor of a larger building off Calle Uruguay—and reviewers have raved about their menu and innovation in dishes. I tried it out.

I got there at about 6:45 and was first greeted by a locked door, then by a waiter telling me in sign language through the glass pane that they don't open until 7. I can't just have a drink at the bar? Nope he said, in the form of that universal hand signal for decapitation. Not a friendly first impression.

Eventually, after a warm-up drink nearby, I was granted access into the restaurant: one pretty small room that held maybe 20 tables. The bar area looked like it was trying to be Miami-cool: sleek neon lights highlighting bottles of trendy liquor like Grey Goose and Hypnotic. The room smelled pungently of blue cleaning supplies, almost to the point it was unappetizing. The place was decorated in a pretty tactful style: with neat, contrasting colors and textures on the walls. However, I'm not sure they realize it, but their ceiling needs serious work. It appears to still be the same popcorn-foam tiles that existed when the place was an office.

We were promptly seated (being that we were the only ones there) and asked the question that always indicates you are in for an expensive dinner: “What kind of water would you like?” The waiter, supernaturally proficient in English, went on. “We have sparkling water, purified water, mineral water, spring water, Fiji water...” I never had any idea so many different types of water existed and would not have been surprised to hear him offer “magical gnome water” or “water taken from the weeping eyes of a lonely princess.” I requested the vodka-tonic water and my dining buddy requested the red-wine water, each of which were juicy.

The menus were unique. They were displayed in a thin wooden frame, not unlike the picture you have sitting on your desk. They weren't terribly varied, but that's not something I have a problem with, assuming fresh ingredients and specialties are in store. We started off with two dishes: fried calamari ($8) which looked like just about every other fried calamari I have ever seen in my entire life. And the fresh grilled hearts of palm salad ($8)—a new and really delicious idea I have not seen very often in Panama. (Hearts of palm—being the actual center of the palm tree—are abundant here, and are one of Costa Rica's top exports.)

The appetizers were quite small, so I was looking forward to the entrees which thankfully did not fail to impress. I had this innovative dish of fresh grouper ($16) wrapped and then seared in a rice paper shell. It was served atop wilted bok choi and a tangy tamarind sauce. The meat was moist and provided nice contrast with the crispy outside crust. Similarly, the beef filet was done in an inventive style: wrapped around itself and stuffed with some sort of cheese and herby mixture. The second I was finished with my meal, the waiter came and swiftly snatched up my plate—an act I find a bit annoying and over attentive. The entrees were very well done and we each finished every morsel but give me a second to rest will ya? Or at least let my dining partner finish his food!

The deserts were humdrum: same old same old of flan, chocolate cake, and the like. By the time we had finished, the restaurant was almost full and it had become very noisy. The food though had taken our minds off such inadequacies.

Limoncillo is a good clip to add to your arsenal of Panama City dining spots. It's not really as magical as the ads display or anything, but it's definitely a sophisticated step up from most places in town. Really an impressive little establishment. Dinner for two with wine was about $75 and the waiter was quick to point out, that that didn't include tip. I'll probably go back to verify each of my nit-pickings are indeed a constant and not some fluke that happened only that night, but for now, consider it a dinner well done.