| Kyukos on Causeway |
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| Written by Matt Landau | |
| Friday, May 11 2007 | |
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This could be my new favorite dig in Panama City. Situated on The Causeway—an area known for touristy restaurants, touristy specials and, well, touristy tourists—this place sticks out like a sore thumb: that is, as long as you're able to find it.
Kyukos is an outside café slash bar where grilled meats and cold beers ($1) rule. It's not something that'd be out of place in Myrtle Beach and it's built on the foundation that cheap drinks and good atmosphere will draw strange people from all walks of life. Take the second time I was there for example: I met a gypsy from Morocco who was called Rin Tin and a child warrior from the Darien jungle who preferred not to wear shoes. His name, Meep Meep. The bar area, adjacent to the dockside tables and umbrellas, is three-sided which is, in my opinion, a welcomed rarity these days. If there is one place in Panama to slug back drinks and stare down the woman of your dreams all without turning your head, this is it. The menu is almost stupidly simple. They have all the traditional Panamanian specialties, meaning that if you can fry something, it will be for sale. Don't expect the waitresses to give you special treatment ‘cause you're waiving your menu around in the air. No, they'll get to you when they want to. My personal favorite item on the menu is the beef brochetas ($1.50), which is a fun way of saying small grilled medallions on a bamboo skewer. Rin Tin and Meep Meep liked these immensely. They come smothered in some sort of boring BBQ sauce but play the perfect role of bar food: easy to eat, moderately tasty, and providing of sharp bamboo weapons upon completion. The ceviche is also above par but does not come with any weapons. The restaurant blasts the music loud which can be good or bad depending on whether or not you want to talk to the other people at your table. Because the place sits on the water and is somewhat sheltered by a small peninsula, it experiences a nice breeze that does not stink. The place always seems to be packed and people always seem to be having a really good time. It's very Panamanian really. There's none of that $29-shrimp-dish mentality which I hate, yet it still enjoys the vibe of the effervescent causeway. How to get there: Go to the last island of the causeway. Go passed Alberto's (the expensive place where the yachts dock themselves). Then go straight and hang a right. Kyukos: 2.5 stars |
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