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Panama Retirement: Not for me

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Written by Matt Landau   
Monday, 10 May 2010 14:04

Someone recently asked me if I would ever retire to Panama and I said, conclusively, that I would not. To serve as preeminent defense, I am aware that “if I don’t want to retire here, I can just go somewhere else.” This is important. But below are also my feelings on what Panama inherently lacks to truly make it an international retirement destination and not just some fly-by-night trend.

This article is a cultural criticism with a difference...you know that I am a member in good standing of the very culture I criticize.

 

When competing with the already-established retirement destinations of the world, there are of course major differences to take into account. Below, I’ve attempted to set apart the ones that would, for me, eliminate Panama from my list of choices.

Rising costs: The original draw to Panama for retirees was that it was inexpensive: that you could hire help and buy food and travel for considerably less than at home, thus improving the overall quality of living. Everything in Panama, with the exception of a few creature comforts, has gone up in price diluting this once-legit selling feature. It would not be uncommon for a retiree here in Panama to spend the same, if not more, on a basket of goods, than would someone in Florida.

Work ethic: You are the company you keep and when I retire, I want to surround myself in some part of the world with prompt and hard working individuals, traits which simply are not engrained in Panamanian culture. Not only is it difficult to get things done relying on a lazy person, but the laziness has a tendency of seeping into you via Panamanian osmosis. I want to get sharper over my retirement years, not more dull.

Food: Good food is an integral part of my life and I could not see myself retiring to anywhere the dining scene or the accessibility to high-end products is anything below spectacular. Innovative chefs, gourmet delivery services, access to new ethnic foods are all lacking in Panama. While it is, comparatively speaking, significantly better than any of the surrounding countries, the food in Panama’s capital (the best the country offers) still leaves a lot to be desired to a true foodie like myself. 

Amenities: If I were to retire tomorrow, I would want to live roughly 1-2 hours outside a cosmopolitan city but I would still ostentatiously demand all the amenities one would expect with comfortable living: gourmet supermarkets, golf courses, airports, hospitals…etc: none of which are really up to speed in Panama’s interior. Granted, development takes time. But for those considering retiring today, the infrastructure isn’t there yet.

Convenience: Panama is inherently an inconvenient country in many ways. When I retire, I don’t want to have to worry about overly-suspicious bank tellers, traffic debacles, non-electronic immigration departments, bad customer service, juega vivo: which is to say, things that cause discomfort and waste my time. The majority of things I do in Panama today are inconvenient and I consider myself a pretty patient and sensible person. In short, when I retire, I don’t want to spend my last days waiting, like we did last night, twenty-five minutes for a BigMac with no ketchup.

Authenticity: For some time, I have been haunted by the contemporariness and the drive for modernity that has emerged in Panama over my experimental time here. I have found myself under the suspicion that the things I’d want in retirement – the comforts, the challenges, the company, and the values – aren’t necessarily a perfect fit for Panama, no matter where in the country I’d choose to live. If I was to overlook all the superficialities, I would search for, above anything else, a sense of authenticity, which is simultaneously something I feel Panama, in its rush for development, is losing on a daily basis.

A common counter-argument, in fact one that I’ve made before, would be to say that the aforementioned challenges are what makes retirement in Panama so…fulfilling. As a young person, I don’t find them harsh enough to turn me away, but that is not to say, however, that when I am older and ready to retire, that I’ll be nearly as forgiving.  

This article is a cultural criticism with a difference. You know full well that I invest, form lifelong relationships, and cherish Panama with a special part of my heart. You also know that I am a member in good standing of the very culture I criticize. I have attempted to explain a trend – retirement to Panama – by digesting what such a move would mean to me.

I would say that I’m not alone in wanting many of these things when I retire. It is a universal longing to desire the genuine and the comfortable, perfection and pleasure. Panama is a tremendous country in so many ways (business, vacation, investment). It’s just that, for me, retirement wouldn’t happen to be one of them.

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Agree...but
written by Happy in the Playa , May 11, 2010
Matt, I consider this a very thoughtful piece. My husband and I have now been retired here for 8 years (a long time considering when we arrived, there were not a lot of people like us). We were a very unique breed back then (and still are today) in that we weren't looking for the creature comforts your article depicts. Instead, we wanted to live quietly and peacefully at the beach: happy to grow our own veggies and catch our own fish. In this regard, Panama was a terrific option for us. This is not to say, however, that many of your comments don't hit a sensitive - albeit accurate - nerve and make me wonder: how much better would our lives be with access to all these virtues and amenities? In all, I think, in general, you are very correct in your outline. There are people, note you, whom don't need that which you explain. But at the same time, a majority of retirees probably do smilies/smiley.gif
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panama retirement not for me
written by Jon Dull , May 11, 2010
Matt, I agree fully with you. I live in Bocas and love Panama, The marine life, bird and plants are a tremendous joy to me. What you mention about the work ethic and customer service and costs of basic necessities is all very accurate. This has to be the worst place in the world for customer service. It is all about the employees and their laziness athan trying to take care of a customer. Maybe that is Bocas because of so many tourists. I think the attitude is another boat load of people will arrive in a few mins. The cost of just basic food items increases every month or two.
I am rethinking if I want to stay in Pma. and I have been coming to Bocas for 10 years and have had a house here. Now I am retired and reconsidering staying here.
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Excellent commentary
written by Donn Warton , May 11, 2010
Great perspective. Except for the Philippines, I have found every place in the world to have some abiding charm. The key, it seems, is to know yourself. My observation is that the majority of ex-pats are less self aware than the general population. I admire this commentary because it breaks down experience into practical categories. In the end, there is no paradise: it is our attitude towards our environment that determines how much fun we have.... anyone interested in Cali, Colombia? Send me a note--donn175@hotmail.com
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You're right
written by royston , May 11, 2010
The customer service here is awful. The people here are slugs with a few exceptions.
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Retirement in Panama? Never, nada, nunca
written by Don Ewert , May 11, 2010
I lived in Panama for two years before recently moving to Medellin Colombia and agree with everything you said. Medellin and Colombia blow Panama out of the water. In fact, there is a migration underway now of expats who are tired of both Costa Rica and Panama and are moving to Medellin. While I wouldn't really recommend Medellin for the retiree couple (most likely to cause a divorce), it is paradise for guys. There are lots of attractive, friendly women, excellent infrastructure, excellent customer service, perfect weather, ultra modern stores, good restaurants, friendly helpful police, the list goes on. In short, Medellin is everything Panama is not. To the gringos still in Panama; if you come to Medellin you will never want to return to Panama.
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...
written by Kathy , May 11, 2010
I'm afraid you have been gone from the U.S. too long. You will find all of the same problems here. Prices are skyrocketing and going to get worse. Lazy people? There are illegal immigrants working everywhere. They work at the same pace as they do in all latin American countries. You are right about the food. It is better here, but restaurants are getting VERY expensive. Solution...learn to cook
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Dead on
written by Ovd , May 11, 2010
As you so elegantly explain, Panama is not an "aspiring" culture. For those who wish to retire amongst dreamers and go-getters and optimists and motivators, Panama is NOT for you. This is not to say Panama doesn't have some great opportunities on other fronts as you dutifully point out (primarily infrastructure, canal, trade). But when it comes to retirement, there are not a lot of people I know that can really thrive in this sort of environment. At least yet...
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Complain much?
written by DaveDel , May 11, 2010
I think it would be easy for the ignorant to simply say, about this article, "stop complaining." But as a Panamanian and a businessman and (soon to be) retiree, I believe your points are fair and truthful. What is unfair is how Panama has adopted the concept of "world class retirement" -- when people arrive here, they are automatically let down. This, my friend, is unfair for both the retiree and Panama the country itself as it has been branded in an unfair manner. Your quote: "I would search for, above anything else, a sense of authenticity, which is simultaneously something I feel Panama, in its rush for development, is losing on a daily basis" could not resonate more with me. Thank you for sharing and managing to turn a cultural criticism into a thing of objectiveness and learning.
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Veracity
written by degas , May 11, 2010
I have been traveling to Panama for over eight years, on business and tourism purposes and reside in the north eastern US. I feel that your perceptions are very accurate and are corroborated by my own. It is refreshing to hear a opinion from someone who "hasn't drank the KOOL-AID". I have travelled extensively throughout the Central & S.America, & have a number of good friends both Panamanians and Expats living there .The problem in some respects is that Panama (Panama City in particular) wants to be' Miami Beach'. I will be spending more exploratory time in the near future in Ecuador, and Colombia.
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Maybe
written by A Craig , May 11, 2010
It all comes to knowing yourself and what you want.
Is it laziness? or a cultural trait because of the heat.
I have been visiting Panama since 1980 and am not looking to
move there. I don't expect things there to be as they are
here in Canada. Isn't that the fun of living internationally?
Age mellows all.
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I couldn't see myself retiring in Panama either
written by LaMer , May 28, 2010
"the comforts, the challenges, the company, and the values" -- your words hit a cord with me.
You are overlooking here the beautiful, lush natural environment. This is something that many retirees look for and Panama is a green country, after all. But beyond this profound need to regenerate at the " green source", there are so many other needs that older people have. "Challenges", at least the physical and mental ones aren't making the top of the list because our bodies do age after all. We might want intellectual engagement, but we don't want to have mental breakdowns over bad service...and our patience does run out as we age. We will need comfort, for sure, and values that are similar to the ones we hold. As an older North American raised in the culture of hard-work and accountability, you wouldn't stand anything less. I see Panama as a possibility for investors and as a second home for those fed up with long winters. But retirement? Maybe...as a temporary experience for those who haven't yet discovered rural Europe or a nice corner back home.
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Trying rural Europe
written by Christian , June 11, 2010
Im a Panamanian in my 30's who lived in Florida legally for 10 years during my 20's. I was looking for the American Dream, but in th end I decided I would come back to Panama,and give it another try. I was blown away by the rising costs, horrible service,the traffic etc. I totally agree with everything the article says, and that's why I never understood why would Panama be such an attractive retiree destination. The fact is that people have different priorities and some may find that they can live with Panama. The same juega vivo some complain about, others like it. I feel the majority are just passing by and will not stay to long.
At my age I want to surround myself with "prompt hardworking individuals" as the article says, in a way escaping from my own culture.(which is sad)
After three years in Panama, I decided to move to rural Europe. So far so good. I enjoy not hearing the constant noise of car alarms every time it rains, the general feeling of accountability and responsibility, being able to travel within Europe in just a few hours. I don't know what will happen, but I have crossed USA and Panama from my places to live list.
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...
written by Charles , June 16, 2010
I can understand your position on topics you touched. However, I believe what you are looking for is not achievable in today's world. It would be very difficult to have access to your "wish list" while doing it on a very low budget. You just can't have it both ways. Please let me know if you find such a destination, maybe I would really have to consider such place.
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Many on my website will disagre with you - but not all.
written by Rob Brown , June 18, 2010
My website researches international retirement destinations. Panama has always scored fairly high on all of our reader surveys.
While your article is well written and quite articulate, it is obviously a young persons' - and clearly North American, perspective.
Many on my site will disagree with you, but not all.
I find the AAA personalities find it particularly hard here, and those trying to get business done. Those pursuing personal goals such as the arts, gardening, reading, and other non-commercial personal pursuits seem to be fairing much better than those that need to work here.
Good to have a balance of opinion in any case. My site is http://www.retirementdetectives.com
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Panama just sucks the Zen right out of me!
written by chocolatina , July 02, 2010
I can not agree more! I am a Panamanian that has been living in the US for 25 years and who has traveled extensively to different parts of the world. I see in my own people a lack of ambition, a very poor attitude and questionable work ethics. I am building a house as we speak and it has been nothing but pure headaches and dissapoinments. I hope things start changing as more people retire here but it will take a long time. For those who favor Colombia remember when Colombia was the most dangerous place to be in Latin America? Maybe there is hope for Panama.
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Lemons or Lemonade?
written by Raymond , July 16, 2010
While reading this article, I can understand this persons opinions about Panama, but as an American businessman, I can only see opportunity. When you say Panama has no good food and bad customer service, what you are telling me is that I should open a food joint and train my staff on customer service then my food joint will be at full capacity every hour of the day. Life is all about perspective.
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Raymond
written by Sammy Scroat , August 22, 2010
You are what Panama sucks its lifeblood from. Matt once thought the same, I remember. Everyone else I met thought the same. What you do not realise is that is a culture of hand outs, of another gringo coming along soon (whether that be an individual, a company or a nation).

Rob Brown. Clearly you have not stayed for any length of time in this tinpot country.
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 11 May 2010 00:43
 
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