The Bocas del Toro Report |
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| Written by Matt |
| Saturday, 01 August 2009 14:12 |
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Due in part to its geographics, the Caribbean archipelago of Bocas del Toro has evolved into something of a phenomenon in Panama: "the" stand-alone self-sustaining travelers destination. One could argue other hotspots are making strides, but in truth, no concentrated area within Panama's borders represents as much of a magnetic and complete tourism draw as does Bocas. The effects of such success - whether Bocas is sustainable, secure, investment-worthy, stable or truly unique - being what we set out to explore.
Bocas del Toro is exactly how Hollywood set designers would depict your Caribbean sleeper village; the scenic archipelago that plays hideout to the loveable conman or the honeymooning newlyweds before something wild happens. It's a place where everyone knows your face to the point of relaxed anonymity. Stray dogs run in and out of shops, the envelope of rustic is pushed to the max, and youth takes precedence over adulthood in many ways. Driving down Bocas' bumpy and dusty backroads with developer Hans Ensink, I got the feeling locals like it this way. Ensink, one of Bocas del Toro's most active real estate players for the better part of a decade, came to Panama after a stint developing in North America in search of a lifestyle change. "Whether it's importing materials, finding good labor, or dealing with Bocas infrastructure," Ensink told me from the panoramic top floor of one of his projects, "construction here isn't easy." Bocas Bay Resort, his new residential project on Isla Colon, is a good example of how young Bocas' real estate market truly is. When completed, it will be the town's first high-end condominium complex: a model playing off the success of regional tourism and the particularly nuanced (and unforgiving) process of development. It's a bit of an anomaly in Panama, Bocas del Toro - a tourism thrust that started around a decade ago, before much of Panama was even on the map - and one that's personally conceived its own particular brand or niche in an otherwise identity-lacking country; a real estate market that's still kind of in its nascence; a developed understanding, through sheer interaction volume, of "the foreigner." And a community that's managed to mature...at an islands pace. Bocas came on the map around 1903 with the United Fruit Company: a time it stood as a hub for trade and culture, Bocas was home to Central America's finest tropical disease hospital. It was a thriving hub until 1914 when, paired with a pest crisis that threatened the livelihood of United Fruit, WWI broke out and German families driving Bocas' growth were asked to leave. This vacuum-like exodus saw Bocas' motivated workforce follow jobs elsewhere while the remainder of the community devolved. A new industry of tourism eventually arose that employed locals and allowed for a trickle down effect into the local community. To be focused solely on tourism has its benefits and its downfalls: while able to allocate resources and efforts towards a united cause, Bocas del Toro's economy became inherently one-dimensional. Getting there There are two normal ways to get to Bocas del Toro: drive to the unremarkable town of Almirante (where Christopher Colombus stopped before Portobello) and take a 30-minute boat ride into Isla Colon. Or, as I prefer, fly from either Panama or Costa Rica's domestic airports. The rickety flights can be prohibitively expensive ($200 round trip from Panama City), but it helps to think of the transfer more as an amusement park ride. On this particular flight for example, I noticed two little bees had made their way inside the cabin and the pilot began swatting them with his shoe. It reminded me of a story a reader sent in about a plane in Russia. Preparing to land, the pilots noticed a leak in hydraulic fluid, which prevented them from lowering one of the wheels. The flight attendants then poured all the liquid they could find aboard - beer, soda, juice, wine, liquor - into the hydraulic tank, which somehow allowed for a safe landing. Our flight arrived safely too and I was wandering the streets Bocas town. What to do Hands-down, Bocas del Toro's daytime activities are water-oriented. Island boat tours are as cheap as $20/person, private catamaran trips as little as $35 and one-way water taxi rides are two or three bucks per person. There's the obligatory first-timer boat trip to the surrounding islands for snorkeling, dolphin watching, and beach hopping. There's also a number of scuba outfits and Indian village tours worth checking out - Bocas is home to some 80,000-100,000 indigenous Ngobe Bugle Indians. Bocas nightlife is a combination of cheap beer and eclectic music that ranges from local reggaeton to Jimmy Buffet. Its herd-like following of young vacationers targets one or two different bars every night of the week. Bar-hopping in Bocas a fine-tuned skill, but inhaling $0.50 rums, vodkas, and tequilas takes about as much talent as combing your hair. As with everything else in Bocas del Toro, restaurants and bars are overwhelmingly laid-back as shirtless, shoeless surf bums would have it no other way. Prices are similarly relaxed: $20 can score a solid meal anywhere like the open-air La Casbah (end of Main Street), where fresh garlic wahoo and a bowl of scarily authentic gazpacho cost no more than a movie ticket at home. Try the $8 fresh snapper and coconut rice at Roots (Bastimentos town or as the locals call it Basti), a South Pacific style restaurant built on wooden stilts over the water. As if al fresco oceanfront dining with local-brewed hot sauce isn't exotic enough, hike twenty jungle minutes to Up in the Hill, a sherpa-like organic tea house right out of an indie film set. Fresh guanabana juice and local cacao-grown brownies, we soon found, are the perfect afternoon snack. Bocas has a select handful of restaurants that compete with the some of the best in the country: creativity (a mash-up of random ethnicities), service (surprisingly first-world), and diversity better than what we find in the ‘cosmopolitan' capital of Panama City. Exhibit A: the asian-influenced Lemongrass. Passion fruit margaritas, tuna poke in wasabi, beef vindaloo (served from an scalding urn) complimented by waiters drinking rum under the table. Want a sandwich? Some locals are embarrassed to admit, but Subway just opened in Bocas del Toro and it stays busy twenty-four hours a day. It's the first, most probably, of an impending migration of chainfood-America that's seemed pleasantly lacking in my several prior visits to Bocas. Tourism According to a 2008 IPAT report, Bocas del Toro's main island of Colon offers up around 30 lodging accommodations (11 hotels, 13 hostels, 2 bungalows, 1 aparthotel) but to the naked eye, it feels to be more around 50 or 60. Most of the less expensive options sit inland where $15/night rests on the high-end. And beyond the several uber-expensive destination resorts located on the outlying islands, the one- and two-storied waterfront accommodations on Isla Colon are host to the more luxurious hotels, among them, the Caribpalatial Tropical Suites where I stayed. To not call it the crème de la crème would be doing it a disservice. Owner Petri Ensink showed that business was still thriving. With around 60-70% yearly occupancy rates and a committed weekend Panamanian clientele, her apart-hotel units, complete with kitchenette, spacious bathrooms and unbeatable ocean views, make the $145/night price tag seems like a no-brainer. Even in high-season when the price increases to just over $200, compared to any waterfront Caribbean getaway I've ever been to, the value in Tropical Suites is ever palpable. A wide swatch of mid-range hotels in Bocas have popped up as the town got increasingly more popular, but a number of these newbies seem to be feeling the effects of the recession the most. With the two extreme ends of the travel spectrum - the backpacker and high-end hotels like Tropical Suites - still reporting good numbers, some of these middlemen ($30-$60/night) have converted into hostels lowering their rates to as low as $10/night whereas other stay open, just barely. "Recession tourism," according to Chris Head of Heiki Hostal, "caters to more savvy, cost-conscientious travelers. We're still getting waves of travelers, lots from the US and Israel, groups of 15-20 people at a time." I believe that, pound-for-pound, Bocas del Toro's tourism industry is the more developed than anywhere else in Panama. English is widely spoken, you can eat cheap and well, inexpensive tours are plentiful, and there are visibly more young visitors wearing rucksacks and riding beach cruisers than any other isthmus destination. The tourism identity is decidedly crunchy. Bocas' official accessory: the puka shell necklace. Bocas del Toro Investment There's more to real estate in Bocas del Toro than buying land for one dollar and selling it for two. That Bocas is an isolated archipelago makes for two distinct investment obstacles: (1) all construction materials (with the exception of local wood) must be imported from David, Panama City, or elsewhere in the world and (2) a large percentage of property is intrinsically right of possession (as opposed to titled). While this is also the case in other Panama regions, Bocas has gotten the best press, making the news for numerous disputes. However, a new Martinelli law mandating property titles has spurred something of a renewed confidence in the market. Even the most bullish of Bocas del Toro's investment experts admitted to me that things are quite slow. After a boom of four or five years, the past two have seen sales in land and homes slowing dramatically. The sluggishness, I interpreted, can be attributed to several three factors: ROP disputes, ill-successes of mega projects (Isla Solarte and Red Frog Beach) and an the global economic recession. Local experts like Don King of Bocas del Toro Realty Inc believes the outcome of resort projects like these effect the reputation of Bocas as a whole. "This is not Cancun," King told us. "Bocas doesn't have the unlimited funds to create a Las Vegas in the desert." King, a scientist by trade, is an advocate of sustainable Bocas development that takes into account energy, water, waste, compost, construction materials, bioclimatic design, and old-fashioned technique. King sees a shift towards people looking for a simpler lifestyle and more eco-conscious construction: investing in farms, cattle, and hard assets as opposed to the pre-construction concrete renderings we know so well in Panama City. Compared to Panama City, Bocas del Toro proportionally exhibits far less overbuilding, perhaps because Bocas infrastructure (heck, even the utilities like electricity or sewage system) couldn't handle it. Around 80% of inventory on the Bocas real estate market is raw land so people like King explained that the market exploded mostly because tourists arrived and saw Bocas as a glamorous place to live. "They bought without negotiating, without thinking," he told me. Now, with the flow of worldwide capital restricted, buyers are doing more research and being more realistic. More cautious. The Dutch-born Ensink, himself something of a land baron, pointed out that development in Bocas del Toro requires close attention and careful quality management - requirements, he says, that are overlooked by many property owners. Whether it's expecting your contractor to build a proper seawall or ill-evaluating sewage networking, Ensink showed me several examples of Bocas-specific building complications. Social Indicators Bulletin boards in Bocas del Toro, the kind you find on narrow wooden gangways leading to the sea, are a spooky amalgamation of English-advertised yoga classes, oceanfront fincas for sale, and used iPods. Which is to say, the entrepreneurial spirit is alive and well here, with locals not only taking part in the tourism progress, but benefiting from it as well. If you're bold enough to bring your laptop on vacation, open it up on virtually any block of Isla Colon and find a slew of wireless networks, not to mention the congenial internet shop offering web-use for only a buck. Several people I spoke with pointed out that crime seems to indirectly correlate with tourism traffic in Bocas del Toro. When hotels are full, petty crime remains low. When business is slow, incidents arise. If it's not a busboy whose hours are reduced, or a boat captain who's clients are absent, it's the less-savory cocaine or the marijuana dealer who's low on sales desperate for cash. A flurry of criminal activity also comes from underage offenders who, after being arrested and documented, are released back into public with little or no recourse. With the slowdown in tourism over the past two years, experts reported that some locals are starting to lose jobs. It's an eerie allusion back to the Bocas del Toro of old, when a shortage of jobs and other external factors resulted in evacuation and deterioration. Neighbors and friends of Bocas del Toro have begun to address said social indicators in an organized group: Bocas needs to be revitalized. And Panama Destinies, a new social awareness group, is calling on all foreigners and locals to do their part. From crime to land disputes to infrastructure problems, Panama Destinies is an attempt to promote Western Panama and put Bocas del Toro back in the limelight. The groups spearhead Don King claims "it's not just a low season. It's a low year. And it could be a low couple of years unless some action takes place." Conclusion In sitting for a sunset glass of really good French wine and some ripe Spanish olives, a local panga pulled up to drop off several Ngobe Indians from a local village in town collecting supplies. The women hopped atop the wooden pier and meandered alongside tables serving, what could only have appeared to be, alien fare to them. This scene, perhaps, is one that nicely encompassed Bocas del Toro for me. A talented culinary scene. A native local community chugging along as if unfettered. A constant drive to further embrace the beauty with which it's blessed. All alongside an unyielding preference for the antimodern and the anticool. There seems to be no concern over Bocas del Toro "selling out," or losing its roughness to refinement because it stays funky enough to keep certain people out. It's not a sexy place to live, a friend told me. It's harsh and rustic. And that's what makes it so great. Whether you like Bocas del Toro or not, what you can't argue is that it's unique and few other Panama destinations can say much the same. Sitting up in that jungle tea house, listening to an Enya remix with a breeze from the Atlantic, amongst blue-banded butterflies and red-headed lizards, speaking English about a Thai restaurant to a Scottish woman, I remembered clearly what drew me to Panama in the first place: the unexpected, the quirky, the charming. Of all the challenges reported during my trip to Bocas del Toro, the most difficult was presented when it was time to leave.
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Comments (9)
  written by Salvavida , August 02, 2009 what an interesting report matt. i live in panama city and have never been to bocas del toro (too far it seems). but the piece makes me want to go! hopefully wont have any plane bees!
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 written by Judy , August 02, 2009 I cant imagine how you came up calling the flight to Bocas ---Rickety. Some of the planes are new, certainly newer than a lot of American planes, not rickety. Years ago, you might have been able to see the pilot, but certainly not now. The planes have 2 pilots, doors to the cockpit, and flight attendents.
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 written by George , August 02, 2009 For cheap places to stay in Bocas, check out http://www.ustaycheap.com
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written by El Gringo , August 02, 2009 I live (and have lived) in Bocas for 4 years - your report is spot on. We need tourism back in this town - things have been slow - hopefully this coming high season will be the spark!
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 written by Janis , August 05, 2009 Bocas sounds like a great place to visit! I had never heard of it before this article and went to my favorite green site, www.EnvironmentallyFriendlyHotels.com, to see what green lodgings they had listed. Staying green is very important to help keep beautiful environments like Bocas beautiful and this is why I travel as eco-friendly as possible.
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 written by Kirsten , August 14, 2009 I just returned to the states from a fabulous week in Bocas. I was crying on the way home and now I want to move there! We stayed at the Hotel Angela and I would highly recommend it to everyone.
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 written by Panamadad , August 24, 2009 The author did a good job of describing the life of living in the Bocas Archepelago. (The bit about the planes was off the mark.. ) I too live in Bocas (8 yrs now) and even though on many occassion I wish I lived on the mainland, here I stay with nature on my doorstep.
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 written by swanny , September 25, 2009 I have lived in Bocas for six years and have had investments here for eight. I sometimes lose perspective on where I am and your article reminded me of the amazing place I live. As a resort owner and real estate developer, I read with keen interest your take on the place.
And I can proudly say that as a resort owner I have tried very hard to be as eco-conscious as possible, utilizing low-impact landscape and construction practices, composting toilets, solar power, natural grey water filtration and passive solar hot water, while as a developer ( www.leisurevolution.org ) I have seen steady sales over the last few years by offering honesty, good value, fully titled property and a project that is fully complete and delivered as promised. It is frustrating that as an investment location, Bocas is know more for the Red Frogs and the Solartes, than the Finca Buena Vidas and the Homes on Dolphin Bay. And indeed, construction here is not for the faint of heart - Hans is bang on! Pay close attention and expect problems. report abuse
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 written by Lyn McKee , May 20, 2010 Matt
We would love to invite you to visit our eco farm on Bocas mainland sometime. Bocas mainland has a lot to offer the adventersome nature lover looking for some tranquil time. We hope to eventually turn our area into a destination also. The weather is great the wildlife supported by the La Armistad International Forest, and the infrastructure is good - even clean drinking water. Next time you get over to the Caribbean side let us know. www.travelpanamablog.com report abuse
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| Last Updated on Monday, 03 May 2010 19:48 |
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