After leafing through some books about the isthmus for a while it was time to take off. As we set off in his SUV, I said “Heckadon doesn't sound very Panamanian.” He laughed and explained, “My Papa was from Kansas and came to Panama while working for United Fruit. He came here during the depression. His forbearers were Mennonites and came to Kansas to escape persecution.” Our conversation bounced around a lot because the Doc is one interesting dude and so I couldn't stay on just one subject. After driving about five minutes through the dark road that slices through Gamboa, I enquired about those guys who ride around in twos on dirt bikes and carry submachine guns. “Those guys are the SWAT teams,” he said. “The police in Panama reflect the ethnic composition of Panama. In colon they are black. In Los Santos they'll be more mestizos and in Panama City they'll be a mix. But if you really want to see the ethnic composition of Panama then visit the University of Panama. Then you will understand the ethnic composition.” As we drove through Soberania the Doc explained that he worked very hard in the late ‘70's and '80's to push for a national parks like Soberania to be created in the old Canal Zone.

We traveled on Madden road, the first asphalt road in Panama. The road goes over Madden dam which was built from '30 to '35 and was heavily defended during WWII. It was at this time I blurted out, “where is the best place to see a toucan?” “You can see them at Ancon hill, Parque Natural Metropolitano, and the canopy tower at Soberania,” he said. As we approached the Santa Rita ridge the air started to become cooler and more humid – it gets an astonishing 3000 ml of rain per year. We then digressed into the topic of Diablo Rojos and how the owners are part of a real mafia. I guess the whole public transportation system is rife with corruption. The owners don't pay back their loans and they get.

Near Colon we passed through a forest that had been clear cut to make room for the airport expansion and CEMIS, a cargo transportation interface (you figure out). It looked like absolute shit and it was indeed a sad sight. Dr. Heckadon made it very clear this is exactly what he hates – I didn't like it either. The road through the forest was one lane and very narrow with tall grass on both sides. We entered a Caribbean lowland forest and then we slowly got into the mangrove system. Half way through we saw a mangrove eagle take off, at which point I was informed that there are 300 species of birds residing on Galeta which is the same amount in the whole of Spain. Amazing!

Making it out of the mangrove forest I could see the turquoise waters in front of me with 6 foot waves breaking on a reef about a hundred yards offshore. The lab is on a point on the island- behind it are mangroves and a beautiful lagoon with a concrete pier jutting into the water. Upon arriving at the laboratory I saw my first Zamia Dressieri plant and was immediately introduced to three guys who give tours and help out at the Lab- Jorge, Antonio, and Guido. In we went and I met more people including the lovely Evelia who didn't hesitate in asking me if I wanted coffee, crackers, or bananas.

After drinking some coffee and eating crackers Antonio, Jorge, Guido and I went outside to check out some of Mother Nature's amazing creatures. In front of us were four shallow pools containing different marine life. In the first pool were sea cucumbers, conch, and starfish. In the second was a large stingray- they are relatives of sharks and therefore, their skin also feels rough like sandpaper. The third tank was the coolest because that's where the hawksbill turtle named Tibul lived. Tibul was rescued as a baby and they are planning to release it when him when he matures.

The last tank had a whole bunch of sea urchins and represented a marine ecosystem. In addition to these tanks they had a couple of large fish tanks with snapper and other Caribbean fish. These pools and tanks are the bread and butter of the Lab. It's where the students coming from all over Panama come to learn about conservation and preserving the environment. The lab also has a big room with two televisions and countless skulls and specimens (both stuffed and in formaldehyde) of sea creatures. As a kid I use to love going to the Field Museum in Chicago and looking at this stuff. I still love this shit!

We walked out onto the pier where in an enclosure near the mangroves were a couple of other hawksbill turtles gliding around in the water. Next we walked down the road along the beach to a board walk that cut through the mangrove forest. As we walked I noticed that the ground was full of these tiny fiddler crabs that are apparently very picky when choosing a mate. There are four different species of Mangrove tree that grow on the island. They are the white, black, grey, and red mangrove. On the way back we saw a gorgeous green tree snake that slid along the boardwalk and onto the nearest branch.

We went back to take a break in the kitchen for a while and that's where I tried bon. It's a traditional sweet bread from colon where during the holy bon is the food of choice and is included in most celebrations. Then it was time to eat lunch and Evelia cooked up some really good rice. I sat down and introduced myself as a Panama reporter. It was really nice. They all seem like a family. After lunch I hung outside for a while and spotted a sting ray skating along the sand. Franklin quickly grabbed his net; you know the kind with lead waits on the bottom. He caught the wriggling thing and threw it into the pool with Tibul.

Places like The Laboratorio Marino Isla Galeta are increasingly becoming necessary as the earth's wild places become squeezed into smaller and smaller areas. It is critical that places like this exist to educate children on the importance of conservation. After all, a world lacking animals like Tibul would be boring and sad. Thank you to all for being so hospitable and showing me around. It was a real treat and I look forward to coming back.

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