A Canadians First Carnival


A Canadians First Carnival

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Written by Administrator

Tuesday, February 14 2006

One of my goals when knowing I was going to move to Panama was to make sure I made it in time for Carnival. I ended up arriving much earlier than anticipated and spent many months looking forward to the annual festivities. I had been told by a number of my Panamanian friends that the interior is the best place to partake in the four day celebration.

I spent the first night, Friday, in Penonome with some good friends. I used to live in Penonome, and I was accustomed to the quietness and home-town feel. When we arrived downtown, I was shocked to see how many people had traveled to this provincial capital. The streets were packed with revelers enjoying drinks, dancing and food. It was like a giant street party with everyone having the time of their lives. Even the policia seemed to be enjoying themselves in the celebrating, yet peaceful crowd. Panama is known for much cheaper prices than in many other parts of the world, but I expected prices to be bumped up for Carnival. I was wrong. Cold beer was still 50 cents, making it very tough (impossible) to turn down in the hot weather and party atmosphere.

The next morning my friends and I set off once again for Penonome. We dressed prepared for the culecos. You don't go to Carnival in the interior dressed to impress. You wear your bathing suit under your rattiest pair of shorts and a top. It is also wise to store all of you money and belongings in a water proof container. This tradition of culecos that accompanies carnival involves giant tanker trucks filled with water, spraying the eager crowds. When the water gets turned on, you jump around, waving your hands, hoping to be the next one completely drenched.

Because Penonome has a large river running through the town, the parade of queens was actually held in the river. The women dressed in their traditional Carnival getups stood atop giant floats that were steered and propelled by a group of locals swimming along side. This annual draw to Penonome's Carnival was an event that I had never witnessed the likes of before. The pace is quite slow though, since you must wait for the exhausted swimmers to finish the route.

On Sunday we packed up our cars and traveled 40 minutes west to Aguadulce. This town was once a boomtown due to the abundance of sugar and shrimp in the area. It has since lost some of its prestige, but is none the less a beautiful, yet very hot town. My friend Jianella, who was accompanying me in the adventures of my first Carnival, is originally from the area so we were lucky enough to spend the day with her friends and family. Carnival is such a popular and anticipated time of year that family will come from all over the country and even across the pond, just to be together for the fun.

I was fortunate enough to spend the day on top of one of the water tankers used for the culecos. It was certainly a different experience wielding the power, spraying the awaiting crowds with water from up above, instead of being down below receiving the unusual shower. We certainly didn't stay dry on the truck, as whoever was holding the hose at the time was more than happy to also douse the revelers on the truck. When we returned to Jianella's family's house we were treated to a traditional Panamanian feast. If you've ever eaten a meal served by a Panamanian, chances are you certainly didn't walk away hungry. No matter what size portion is placed on your plate, you must finish it all. The food was of course incredible, so it wasn't that much of a hardship! After having the traditional afternoon Carnival nap, I decided to head east on the PanAmerican Highway to see what Carnival is like in Panama City.

Matt and I and a visiting friend from Costa Rica headed down to Via Espana, the main location for all the Carnival activities in the city. The first thing I experienced in my big city Carnival celebration was having confetti thrown directly in my face, and my eyes. People young and old buy little bags of confetti and spend all of Carnival tossing it at passerby. After having about 7 handfuls thrown at my face, I realize this is probably the most annoying Carnival tradition.

The festivities in the city are very different from what I had already experienced in the interior. There seemed to be a lot more families with small children out on Via Espana, even in the wee hours of the morning. There were still lots of food and drink to be had, and almost every corner of Via Espana had been turned in to a makeshift discotec. I was very surprised by how quiet the rest of the streets in Panama City were. The city is known for its unusual traffic pattern and abundance of cars on every street, but during Carnival the streets were nearly deserted. I don't know whether this is because many people leave the city to head to the interior, or if it is because everyone stationed themselves on Via Espana and stayed there for four days. I am sure it is a combination of both.

By the time I arrived home at about 3 in the morning, I was too exhausted to have a shower, and woke up regretting that decision in the morning. My bed, bedroom and bathroom ware covered in confetti that had, until I hit the sack, remained attached to me.

By Monday morning I simply did not have the energy to engage in any pre-dusk partying. I spent most the day regaining my strength lying in front of the television. By the evening Matt and I joined two other friends and once again headed down to Via Espana. We only lasted there for about half an hour and decided we had enough confetti thrown at us and water guns soaking us. I chose instead to head to a nearby casino and blow an undisclosed amount of money at a blackjack table.

Though Carnival was still in full swing on Tuesday, I just couldn't muster up enough strength to do it again. Because I live just a few blocks from Via Espana, I could hear the party continue throughout the day and night. It certainly made me wonder how all these Panamanians do it. I supposed they spend most of the year looking forward to the event and have grown up with the tradition so they become used to what it entails.

I admit I could have taken advantage of the festivities more, but I was quite happy with my first Carnival and though I like a good party as much as the next person, I am glad this is a once a year event. And you can bet I am already looking forward to next year.

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