Studying a Broad, Spanish Influence in Panama


Studying a Broad, Spanish Influence in Panama

(9 votes)

Written by Matt Landau

Monday, November 19 2007

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I originally flew to Spain based on the amusing joke that was my education, ultimately trading in my studying habits for a white bullfighting uniform and a tepid bottle of Rioja. After my time there, the country had burrowed its way into my heart like an aggressive little mole, and there are certain facets of Panama which almost nostalgically bring back those reckless days to mind.

Guidebooks depicted Spain, in my opinion, as something it was not. I never once saw, for example, a group of conquistadores in full metal armor sitting outside Plaza Mayor like the cover of my Madrid chapter claimed. Neither did I encounter much of the "outgoingness" people in Spain were supposed to exhibit. Rather, people in Spain tended to look at me and my immature college friends with disgusted, almost enraged eyes as if to say would you just get done with your classes and then get the hell out?

My university tried to prepare me with a curious booklet, no longer than fifteen pages, supposedly consisting of everything one needed to know about living and studying abroad. As it turned out, this book was more a form of terrorism; an effort by my instructors to scare the living shit out of students so that, ideally, kids would return home at the end of three months with all their limbs, organs, and brain cells in tact.

What the guidebooks and study abroad pamphlets didn't prepare me for though, was that my glorious experiences in Spain would eventually all become one big blur. Nights of drinking in Plaza Santa Ana and trips to the eastern seaboard would seamlessly blend together with afternoons in Parque Retiro and dusk soccer matches at the Estadio Bernabeau. And while many actual events have now become no more than a Spanish smudge in my memories of that fall, there are still certain intricacies that I swear I'll never forget.

Intricacies like the breezy open plazas where we'd sit out and chew olive pits or the canopied side streets we'd wander down after class. There is significant Spanish influence in Panama due to, of all things, the Spaniards, and I take comfort in consuming it all like a ravenous boar hog.

1) Cafeterias: If you've been to Spain you know them well. You're 24-hour restaurants with the annoyed-looking waitresses, brightly-lit bar backdrops, and large legs of jamon Serrano hanging like blimps from the ceiling. Here in Panama, you can get your cafeteria fix at places like El Prado (Via Argentina) or Manolo's (Via Veneto) which, while I'm not positive of their owners' origin, totally remind me of my devious days in Spain.

2) Parks: They're some of my fondest memories, roaming through Madrid's public parks on weekends, and there are some quaint commons which are welcomingly reminiscent here in Panama. Try Parque Uraca (directly across from the Intercontinental Miramar on Balboa) or the one on Via Argentina which I'm gonna call Parque Argentina. The little fountains, gusty tree branches, and crafty little children bring me back in a heartbeat.

3) Colonial Architecture: In spots like Casco Antiguo (a.k.a. Casco Viejo) you'll see that terrifically Spanish-colonial architecture with Native American and Moorish features. Balconies with hanging bougainvilleas and wrought iron railings reminding me longingly of the areas around the Bilbao metro stop in Madrid.

4) Churches: It's a very Spanish thing to have, in the interior of the country, a church in the middle of a small town. I love wandering through the Azuero Peninsula and seeing this time after time: charming little squares outside of gorgeous churches where old men and women sit and gossip.

5) Attractive People: Just as my friends and I used to helplessly chase pretty girls in Spain, the same is true here in Panama where tan skin tones and toned body types are dangerously ubiquitous. In certain spots like Chitre and Las Tablas, you can find closer descendants of the Spaniards: Panamanians with light skin, blue eyes, and in some cases even blonde hair.

While Caribbean culture has radically tempered the Spanish influence in Panama beyond the major things like language and customs, there still exist a number of places where, if you close your eyes and wait for just the right moment, you might feel like you're back in Spain. You won't find any cold Mahou beer though, and a good tortilla Espanola is probably best flown in by FedEx.

Comments (3)

Gilipollas: ...

pay a visit to massoliver for the food nostalgia fix that will leave your heart content and your wallet crying

November 19, 2007

Anonimo: Cafeterias

Actually, Manolo and Boulevard are owned by Spaniards

November 23, 2007

James Streator: ...

Cabs cost closer to $4. Gasoline has gotten expensive in Panamá. Wearing shorts in Panama City does bring disapproving stares and perhaps one should be culturally aware and wear light weight long pants in the city. Most anywhere else in the Canal zone, shorts are common. In January, the need was to go light on insect repellent (no mosquitoes even in the jungle) and heavy on the sun block.

You can negotiate with van drivers for tours of various places and the driver will stay with you while you shop or sightsee. Be sure any driver you choose can speak your language if it is other than Spanish. The languages commonly spoken are Spanish (Central American style)and English but we heard French and German also being spoken. Agree on a price before you start out!

Prices for a lot of items are quite good at the duty free shops on the Amador (canal area of Panama City). For example, we found fixed price Mulas for quite a bit less than the prices arrived at after haggling a bit in the San Blas area or on the walks in Casco Viejo.

Panamá is beautiful and we met many friendly and helpful Panamanians.

February 08, 2008

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