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Expatriates in Panama

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Written by Matt   
Tuesday, 20 October 2009 08:48
Expatriates in PanamaThe first time I visited Panama, I was sitting at a bar in the banking district when the people to my left overheard my conversation with a friend. "Excuse me, we don't mean to be rude, but we couldn't help but eavesdrop..." and I wanted to stop them right there. I've been in this position many times, sitting close to an interesting conversation and wanting to listen in, and I can tell you that it's not as if the decision is compulsory. You either choose to be nosy or you start a conversation of your own. "We couldn't help but eavesdrop," they said, "and notice from your accents that you are from the United States. Are you folks expatriates here in Panama?"

It was the first time I had ever heard the word in person. Expatriate. Frankly, I don't feel I was out of line to assume its meaning was composed of two parts: ex (formerly associated with) and patriot (someone who supported the cause of independence in the American Revolution). An odd question, I thought, to ask at a bar. It was like asking someone at a dinner party if they happened to fight in the Crimean War. Luckily my friend chimed in and said no, that we were just in town visiting.

As I would come to spend more time in Panama, I'd increasingly be associated with the word expatriate and its shortened version, expat. When asked once who started calling us expats, I suggested that the term was born in the cabin of a sinking submarine. "They cut the word in half in an attempt to save air," I said.

As American expats we're constantly expected to assume full responsibility for the actions of our country. Sometimes this leads to good things (on the night that Obama won the election, a woman in the street walked up and handed me a beautiful young orchid). Other times, it can lead to embarrassment (at the gym, a guy hastily asked me why I just started over-taxing his coffee). I thought back to the previous week and contemplated, did I really do that? It's not as if we signed up for this ambassadorship - just a role that comes along with the territory I suppose.

I'd never really contemplated how Americans are viewed overseas until I went to live in Spain where I realized our image, particularly the image of young college students studying abroad, was comprised of loose women, copious amounts of alcohol, and a disregard for anything not written in the English language. The standout example was a kid from St. Louis we nicknamed Johnny Spring Break who ended his semester getting almost fatally electrocuted atop a subway car. Not ironically, he was trying to affix an American flag to the roof to celebrate the fourth of July.
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In Panama, expats are tied together by two things: the country they were not born in and a fanatical inclination towards formal gatherings to discuss the downfalls of Panama. To me, attending these get-togethers is akin to spending the evening at Windrows, the senior care center where my grandfather began seeing live unicorns in his Jell-O. The only difference here is that everyone's wearing a bright colored shirt. In all fairness, leaving the US for Panama takes guts, and built into each expatriate is an involuntary authentication, a sense of diversity and creativity that somehow automatically makes them cool and thus united in a weird sort of way.

When asked to account for the time I've spent in Panama, I reach for my old passport, which is decorated to the point of obligatory renewal with fading Panama immigration stamps. I always thought my pages were particularly impressive until I saw those of my friend Kate. Hers was an entire passport brimming with entrance and exit stamps from the Republic: a manifestation of her love (or at least dedication) to life down south - one that made my interest look like a weekend hobby. I gained a new respect for Kate the day I saw all those pages. I gained a new respect for Panama. Hell, I gained a new respect for any foreigner who considers themself an expat, who represents their country properly abroad, or who dutifully supported the cause of independence in the Revolution War.
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once an expat...
written by La Mer , October 26, 2009
Enjoyed this article over a cup of coffee. I've been an expat for the last 15 years (although not an American expat and not in Panama yet) and that's how I intend to stay for the rest of my life. ONce an expat, you remain an expat. I can attest to the general truth in your statement: "...expats are tied together by two things: the country they were not born in and a fanatical inclination towards formal gatherings to discuss the downfalls of [Panama]"-- read any country you happen to inhabit."
;-)
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Expat Meeting Places
written by Jim Strummer , November 01, 2009
Can you tell me where expats meet up? Is there a club or other venue that is uniquely expat (except maybe the staff)? I am coming down with my family to live in Panama and am looking for more information.
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Half Right
written by Richard , November 28, 2009
The term expatriate has nothing to do with "patriot (someone who supported the cause of independence in the American Revolution)." The "ex" part is correct, but the "patriate" part comes from the Latin "Patria" meaning native land (from patrius, paternal, from pater, father. Of course the word "Patriot" derives from the Latin "Patria," as well.

I am always put off by people like Jim Strummer who move, become "expats" and then want to hang around with Gringos in a foreign land. Want to hang out and drink beer with a bunch of Gringos? Stay in the States.

I have lived abroad prior to getting my Pensionado in Panama. I got a job years ago that landed me on the French Riviera for what was an indeterminate length of time. The job was presented as "How'd you like to live in France for 'six months or so?'" Neither the boss or I expected it to end up being nearly three years. When I went there the extent of my French consisted of being able to count to ten, and I have to admit that I sought out other English speakers. But as my stay lengthened I began to learn the language and the more of the language I learned the more I gravitated towards the natives and distanced myself from the other Gringos and expats. At the end of my sojourn it dawned on me that I would go for days without hearing a word of English. I would DREAM in French. (After all, if you are having a dream and the people in your dream only speak French you can't speak to them in English. They wouldn't understand you.)

What I gained from separating myself from the English speaking expat community was to develop wonderful relationships with the "natives." I never would have gotten to know the wonderful elderly Corsican couple who owned a small wine and cheese shop on the Rue de Pecheurs (Fisherman's Road) in Golfe Juan where I went weekly for my supplies. Delightful people who always seemed to slip a little something extra into my shopping bag. While my acquaintances of the first six months of my stay still sat in the expat bars I was being invited to small local festivals they weren't even aware of.

Not only did I have a richer experience for enmeshing myself with the local community and gaining a different view of the world I believe that the people I met with gained a better perspective of Americans. On my last day in France one of my acquaintances said, "When I first met you, I hated you. I hated you because you were an American. I hated you because you didn't speak French, but before you go I want you to know, I love you. You are my FRIEND."

So my advice to the Jim Strummers of the world is learn the language. Become part of the community.
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Please...
written by Bob Jones , December 04, 2009
Richard, please get off your pompous high horse. Jim has every right to hang out with other gringos in a foreign land. There is no law against it. I suppose you'd like to kick out all the Chinese living in Chinatowns all across the U.S. just because they can't speak English? Give me a break. Many people visit foreign lands to enjoy the land, not necessarily the people. I'm talking about the weather, the scenery and natural beauty. After living in Panama for a while, I've had no inclination to get to know the Panamanians. In fact there are many things about their culture and way of life that are major turn offs... mainly honesty and work ethic. Many will rip you off blind and do crappy work for you. Same old broken record. Don't get me wrong I know a few Panamanians, the dignified ones. But the rest don't strike me as fascinating nor appealing people.
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Learn the language?
written by Jim Strummer , December 17, 2009
Sorry but i am coming to Panama when my apartment is finished to live a relaxing life. I have no intention of being Panamanian. That is the very last thing I want to be. Low cost lifestyle, especially where I can have several runabout staff rather than a Haitian wanting minimum wage, is what I want.
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Thanks for the story
written by Sylvie , July 11, 2011
I know you wrote this a while back, but thanks for sharing your experience.

I believe that if you are planning to leave your home land and live in a new country, you must love every part of it. If you dont, well, get out! You left your homeland for a reason, and if you have a problem with the people or the culture of the country you immigrated to, then obviously it is not a suitable country for you and please just move on. Some people do not have the courage to leave their land, but since you already have, keep moving.

A specific question for Matt Landau: How did you deal with your financial situation, e.g., credit cards, mortgage, loans, etc.? I am planning on moving there as well, but I am afraid of my credit and reputation back at the states. My parents still live here and I would like to visit them without worrying about my status as an American. Please let me know how you dealt with this issue.

Thanks smilies/smiley.gif
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Last Updated on Thursday, 29 October 2009 09:32
 
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